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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.